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John Lobb is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 1800s.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines timeless classics with modern updates. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez model, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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